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How Second-Hand Clothing Impacts Economic Resilience in Africa

Economic Resilience

Economic Resilience Beyond WEIRD Thinking: Lessons from Africa’s Informal Economy

 

The social enterprise arm of Resilient Generations is rooted in supporting economic resilience through the growth and sustainability of African businesses in both the formal and informal economies. To understand how economic resilience can be cultivated, it is important to examine the broader contextual realities across Africa.

 

Much of the global development work has been guided by what is often referred to as WEIRD thinking (Western, Educated, Industrialized, Rich, and Democratic). While this framework reflects the lived experience of many in the Global North, it represents only about 12% of the world’s population. Yet, the assumptions and systems and cultural norms of the West are frequently imposed on cultures and economies that function very differently.

Anthropologist Tom Weisner addresses this in his TED Talk, reminding us that research and practices grounded in Western ideology and colonial structures can be misleading.  A lack of contextual understanding, well-intentioned actions and interventions can unintentionally undermine what they sought to support.

The Informal Economy and Second-Hand Clothes

To illustrate this concept, consider the image in this post: a market on the outskirts of Nairobi, Kenya, where second-hand clothing imported from the West is sold. Each year, millions of tons of used clothing from Europe and North America are shipped to African countries.  In Ghana, this clothing is referred to as Obroni Wawu, which translates as “dead white man’s clothes.”  Other countries, such as Kenya, Tanzania, Nigeria and South Africa, use similar terms.

 

 

Initially, one might think this trade might offer a viable economic opportunity. It creates markets, generates small-scale income, and provides access to affordable clothing. However, growing evidence tells a more complicated and concerning story.

Used Clothing, Fast Fashion and the Consequences of Textile Waste

Rather than strengthening local economies, the influx of secondhand clothing often erodes economic and environmental resilience.

Key challenges include:

  • Undermining local industries: The availability of cheap imported clothing weakens domestic textile and garment industries, limiting job creation and entrepreneurial growth.
  • Low-quality fast fashion defines much of what is shipped and is unsellable due to poor quality in the fast fashion industry.
  • Environmental harm: Unsold clothing ends up in landfills, waterways, and informal dumping sites, as recycling resources are not available, and consequently, this waste contributes to long-term environmental degradation.
  • Increases the burden of poverty: Those selling in the resale used clothing markets often sustain survival-level income rather than creating pathways to economic advancement. They often travel long distances to obtain clothing in the hope that it will increase their income; however, in a saturated market, this is not feasible.

What appears to be a charitable solution continues to reinforce a grave cycle of poverty that exists in many parts of Africa. Countries such as Rwanda, Uganda, and Tanzania have sought to restrict imports of used clothing from the West.  To learn more, check out Trellis, an organization that seeks to address business practices that impact of climate change.

Creating Economic Resilience through Social Enterprises

Economic resilience is not about imposing external solutions; it is about supporting locally driven systems that honour existing skills and invest in enterprises that reflect and validate culture and the social and economic realities on the ground. Resilient Generations partners with local African entrepreneurs in the formal and informal economies, particularly women and young people, to enhance their economic resilience.

In future posts, I will share more about how social enterprises, ethical trade, and community collaboration can contribute to both psychological and economic resilience and how each of us, through our daily actions, can help to make the world a better place for many more than ourselves.

Small choices matter. Together, their collective impact can make a lasting change

Resilient Generations affirms its commitment to economic resilience through its partnership with Sabahar, a social enterprise based in Ethiopia. If you are looking for a meaningful gift that creates a ripple, consider the scarves we carry from Sabahar. They are all made from natural fibres and dyes and are ethical and environmentally friendly. As a distributor, I also offer wholesale pricing for retail customers. Please let me know if your retail outlet is interested in carrying this product.

Additionally, next time you donate used clothing to organizations such as Valley Village or your local church that sends it overseas, please consider a local non-profit, such as Women in Need in Victoria, B.C., a social enterprise that gives back to its local community.

To learn more, check out this post and learn how to find the closest city textile recycling center.

Please help others learn how to increase the economic resilience of people in regions such as Africa and enhance the economic resilience of many more.  Please share, like and discuss this post within your community. Please leave a comment as well if you like.